A Year Completed and a Week to Go

Yesterday marked a year to the day since I arrived in El Salvador.  I'll avoid typical comments like, "I can't believe how quickly it went", but I will say, this is without doubt, the year of my life where I have learned the most -- about me, El Salvador,  and the world.  I feel like I have been changed and I will never again see the world in the same way that I did a year ago.  I will be able to find joy in places I never looked before and I now know a new level of challenge in the lives of many people.

What a week this has been.  One of the things that seems to happen here is that foreigners feel more emotionally vulnerable.   For me it has to do with living in a culture and life where I only ever "sort of" know what is going on around me.  I have learned to live with the ambiguity but the stress of coping just seems to make my emotions closer to the surface.  Sure enough at a meeting this week I had to leave because I was going to cry.  I was just feeling overwhelmed with everything.  There is a lot of work to do with the elections.  Some of it is easy for me and some of it needs a level of Spanish that is really beyond me.  Being me, I feel frustrated because I can't get it done to the level that I want.  My teammates rallied and we have developed some new strategies and there are some new elections people arriving this week that we can put to work too!

That day, I decided to go for a "North American" lunch at Tony Roma's and bumped into another volunteer from the United States who "just needed a burger and fries" too and off we went.  I ended up talking to her a lot about my experiences at ADES and the people I have gotten to know, the impact the war had on them and why the elections are so important.  At times we were both in tears, but the discussion certainly reminded me why this work is important.  It helped to refocus my angst.  That was all on Thursday.

Friday was my regular day to go to ADES.  Lately, Fridays have been the highlight of my week.  There is a feeling of coming home.  Everyone is happy to see me, is interested in what I am doing and really makes me feel welcome.  They understand my Spanish (mostly) and are very eager to help me with the elections work in whatever way they can.   I bought a cake  (the cake is so amazing here, they put sweetened condense milk in the batter and so it is very, very moist) and we shared it as a way to say thanks for an wonderful year.

Yesterday a group of us went to a beautiful town in the mountains called "La Palma".  There is a famous artist named Fernando Llort (pronounced Jort).  His art style is very popular and is on almost all of the handicrafts made here.  5 women ranging in ages from me at 43-81 made the trip, with my favourite new tour guides.  Before I wax on about the tour guides, let me tell you about these women.  They are all Spanish students or volunteers at CIS.  Marilyn, the 81 year old is from Lakefield, outside Peterborough.  She spent last year travelling around India solo.  I have to say this group is an inspiration for me on how to age well and live a socially aware life!

L-R: Antonio, Lis, Andres, Marilyn (81), Ann (71), Jill (63) Linda (66)

A Door in La Palma, in the Llort style.

The breathtaking scenery of the mountains of El Salvador.

Of course, I need to tell you a bit more  Andres, Antonio and Lis, the tour guides.  They so continue to impress me with their professionalism, attention to detail and the quality of their service, not to mention they are cute and a lot of fun.  These young entrepreneurs are so much more than "transportation".  Andres spent time on the internet finding other places we could go in addition to La Palma, to make it a true day trip.  They are so attentive to the needs of the group.  Lis, sat in the back of the van with us and recorded all of the details of the trip - the time it took to get to each place, how long we spent, what we did...so that they can review and revise.  As the tourism business isn't yet generating enough income they also have developed a food business and sell little shishkabobs, muffins and brownies to students at a local University.  I have a huge respect for the ambition and determination of these young people.

My friend Lenora arrives on Wednesday from Edmonton, Anneliese from Waterloo on Saturday and Lynn from Waterloo next Monday.  The Observer program officially  starts a week Monday on March 5th.  We have one more week to get it done and then after that, it just won't matter very much!  I am going to try and keep up with my blogs but don't worry if I miss one or two.  The next two weeks are just going to fly by!  Abrazos (hugs) to everyone.

I climbed a volcano because it was there and I could!!!!

So yesterday my friends Jill, Ann and I climbed the Santa Ana volcano.  I have to admit, I wasn't all that keen on the idea, but my friend Jill really, really wanted to do this.  I thought, well it will likely be a good experience.  I was not feeling quite so happy when we arrived at the volcano and it was foggy and cold.  It was hard to believe I could be cold, as the the day before was one the hottest days I have ever experienced in El Salvador.  In the end we all agreed that we were glad it wasn't sunny as the climb would have been that much harder.

As often happens here, someone knew someone, who knew someone who is trying to launch a tourism business here.  Antonio and Andres generally take people on camping, kayaking, rock climbing type of excursions, but yesterday they drove us and accompanied us up the volcano.  Jill is in her 60's and Ann is in her 70's.  We were all very grateful to have Antonio and Andres with us because we could not keep up the pace with the younger climbers.  We felt safe with "our guys" and we climbed up and down at our pace.  We were also accompanied by a police officer.  Neither Antonio, Andres or the Police Officer broke a sweat, while the three of us worked hard to get up to the top of the volcano.  I'm not sure what I expected, but I was surprised at how barren it is at the top.  There is also a sulfur lake in the crater.   When my family was here and my young cousins would ask the driver how much further, the answer was always about 20 minutes.  I developed the same system with Andres.  When I asked how much further, he always said 10 minutes.

As I was sweating and huffing up the volcano I thought about the idea that sometimes we know too much.  When Andres told me it was 10 more minutes, I knew at times it wasn't true, but somehow 10 minutes seemed manageable.   I certainly have learned over the past year that smaller goals are much more manageable, particularly when the situation seems completely overwhelming.  When I first arrived in El Salvador, 16 months here seemed like an eternity.  Next Saturday will mark my year anniversary.  I think it would have been easier if I had thought about it in 3 month increments, rather than as a whole.

Me, Jill and Ann - We made it to the top!

The crater with the sulfur lake

At the bottom with the volcano in the background

In other news this week...On Tuesday it was friendship day here - not really Valentines Day.  I have to say, I like this idea a lot.  So I wanted to take a moment and say thank you to all of my friends and family who read my blog.  You matter to me and you are important to me.  I am so thankful for each of you.  Please give yourself a huge hug from me and know that in a few months, I'll be giving you a huge hug in person!

As I am writing my blog, my sister is moving into her new house.  Many of you know that the past few years have been particularly challenging for her.  Moving into the new house is a great way for her and Rachel to be future focused.  She is very excited about "nesting" after feeling like she was "in transit" for the past few years.  I am thrilled that she is moving on to this new step in her life.  While I am sad that I am not there to help, I am glad that so many family and friends have supported her in so many ways through this process.  The move into a smaller home has also necessitated a significant thinning of the "Macaulay collection" all of the left over stuff from my parents and grandmothers house.  While this has been at times emotionally challenging for both of us, lessening the load from the past seems to be very important for all us to move on to create the futures that we want.  I am thrilled and delighted for Karen and Rachel and wish them many years of happiness in their new home.  

Finally, the Elections work is busy and challenging in many ways, but I am loving it.  This week I have started having discussions about what I will do after the elections.   Both ADES and CIS have ideas and so I am trying to sort that out.  For the first time since being here, I have too many options and so I need to think about what I want to do for my final time here.  Imagine!

Little Bits

So there are a bunch of little things I wanted to share with you.  Firstly, I felt my first tremor two weeks ago!  I forgot to tell you about it last week.  They happen in El Salvador all the time and mostly the foreigners don't feel them.  They are slight and quick and by the time someone tells you we are having a tremor, it is done.  The one a few weeks ago,  was just after I had settled down in my bed and the whole house moved twice, very quickly and then it was done.   Foreigners often call this action an "earthquake" and Salvadorians laugh.  It would be about the same as someone calling a few snowflakes a blizzard!  An interesting experience nonetheless!

Secondly, two weeks ago I also received a reply from the Canadian Government responding to my inquiry in October as to a a Canadian Government response to the floods here.  I didn't know this, but the Canadian Government send 2 million dollars to Central America , of which $700,000 went to El Salvador.  They distributed through International Humanitarian Organizations like the Red Cross.   This was new information for me and I was pleased to hear it.

Elizabeth in a hammock at Lucy's house

Elizabeth, Dennis and Lucy

This week I had the pleasure of sharing a bit of my life here with Dennis and Elizabeth Huss.  They are retired friends of mine from Westminster United Church in Waterloo.  They have a goal to visit 100 countries in the world and to date have been in about 75.   This year they took on Central American and added in a bit of time to visit with me in El Salvador.    We toured a little San Salvador on the day they arrived and the next day we went to Guacotecti and visited ADES and Sensuntepeque.  They were great sports and spent 3 hours on two buses each way.  One of the highlights for everyone was when my friend Lucy from ADES invited us to her house for lunch.  She served us a great bean soup, tortillas and fresh cheese and tomatoes.  Elizabeth liked the "hammock lifestyle" so much that she and Dennis bought one to take home.  I have to say, I am seriously considering adding a hammock to my living room when I get home.  This way I can use it all year round!

There is so much about life in El Salvador that is difficult.  People here have to endure so much more than most Canadians.  There are few systems that work particularly well.  This week, I had three separate conversations that inspired me.  The first two were about the elections.  One of my English students, Edwin, has been selected to work for the Supreme Electoral Tribunal on the day of the election.  His job will be to take the official piece of paper that has the vote totals and send it into the head office.  He will also have to make copies of the vote totals for each poll at his voting centre.  He talked to me a lot this week about his responsibility to care for the votes.  Although he got this job through a particular political party, it is clear that his first allegiance is to the law and the voting process, not his party.  I have always have taken this for granted, but it is not always the case here.  I was deeply impressed with his desire to be a part of an election that happens according to the rules.

I also had the opportunity to talk with a lawyer from the United States.  He is someone who has had a deep interest in El Salvador for many years.  He has visited the country and has many Salvadorian clients.  He is coming to be an Observer, in part because he is so impressed with what the Salvadorian people have managed to do...unite rebel/guerilla forces under one banner, become a legitimate political party and have a President from that party.  He is of course correct.  This has been a huge achievement of the Salvadorian people.  Sometimes in the midst of all of the difficulties of the day to day, it is easy to lose sight of the bigger picture and the bigger struggle.  I was glad to be reminded of this.

This week I was introduced to the young doctor in charge of the Health Centre in Victoria.  Salvador is from Santa Marta and he was able to receive his education because of  a scholarship program from ADES (funded by contributions from out of the country).  Antonio, ADES Executive Director explained to Dennis and Elizabeth that ADES works a lot in the area of education believing that this is the way that people will be able to develop their own communities.  While this takes a lot of time, people like Salvador, who is now a Doctor in a community very near to where he grew up, are evidence of what a little bit of North American/European aid can mean for a poor community.  Educating Salvadorians is a much better option than parachuting in foreigners to meet needs.   Positive change is here.  But is is small and slow and you need to watch for it.

A Great Day and a Great Birthday

So today was one of those unexpected, out of the blue great days.  It started out like most Fridays, excepted I got to sleep in until 6am.  Then I was on the buses and off to Guacotecti.  As I am spending so much time on the Elections Program, I am really out of sync with what is happening at ADES.  I arrived this morning to find out that it was the closing/graduation ceremony for two groups of mostly young people who have received several weeks of training to become reporters at Radio Victoria.  As you may recall, Radio Victoria is a community radio station that is mostly staffed by youth and young adults.  Over the years the staff at Radio Victoria have received several death threats because of their anti-mining position.  A few weeks ago, they received a new round of death threats in response to a story they covered about the illegal posting of election material.  There does not seem to be any shortage of young people willing to take on this task.

Before Christmas I spent a few Saturdays in a little place called Cinquera, where one of the two training groups was held.  I liked the youth in this group.  I found them intelligent, giggly and self-conscious...just what many youth are like.  Today some of them came up to me and started talking.  I explained that I could not stay for the whole event because I needed to teach an English class.  After the event and after my English class one of the youth cornered me to find out how they could get an English course in Cinquera.  Eduardo is involved with the Radio Victoria project and he is also involved with CIS in the election community training program.  He said that he wanted my contact information but that he was going to talk to Leslie at CIS and Tita the Chair of the Board at ADES because he and his colleagues need English classes.   This not a project that is on anyone radar at the moment, but somehow I wouldn't be surprised if I or one my colleagues ends up teaching English in Cinquera after the elections.  Although he is young, Eduardo is not one to give up.

As part of the ceremony today, all of the graduates were "sworn in" as reporters.  They had to promise to search for the truth and to work toward the development of their communities.

Out for dinner to celebrate my birthday.

Sharing icing with Jenny and Nora.

Another Busy Week!

So the beginning of this week brought good news...I was parasite free.  I had decided a few weeks ago that I really, really needed more raw vegetables in my life.  I think this is likely the first time that I have ever, really, really missed a good salad!  I carefully brought produce, washed it as I had been instructed and devoured blissfully.  However, it is likely this that introduced parasites into my system.  After a quick visit to a lab and a meeting with a very nice doctor - who prescribed an anti-parasitic medication and told me I needed to buy disinfectant for my veggies, I am back on track.   With the help of other foreigners at CIS, I tracked down the disinfectant - soaked my veggies this week and so far all is good gastro-intestinally speaking!  Salvadorians don't generally use this product because the don't eat raw vegetables.  Jonathan, my 23 year old housemate sat me down this week and explained me to how this wasn't Canada and I really shouldn't eat raw food.  I explained to him, that I really needed to.  Now every time he sees me eating something raw he asks if it has been disinfected!

This has been a busy week for the Elections Team.  We had two special meetings.  The first was with the Sub-Comandante of Public Security at the PNC (El Salvador's National and only Police Force).  The meeting was in the administrative headquarters - a breathtakingly beautiful building known as "el castillo" (the castle).  From the outside that is what it looks like.  Inside the tile work and ceilings were exquisite.  Unfortunately I forgot my camera that day, so there are no pictures!  It is like no other building I have ever seen in El Salvador.

The Sub-Comandante talked a lot about the role of the police during the election campaign and on election day.  Protecting International Observers is one of their 5 main roles!  He also talked about how residential voting is a huge logistical challenge for their department.  Significantly increasing the number of voting sites means that the force will be more divided up on election day.  In another blog I talked about the problems of caring for the "Election Boxes" that contain all the materials for the polling stations (including ballots, voters lists etc.).  Apparently, the Police are not allowed to actually touch the boxes, rather they can only provide security.  The boxes cannot travel in Police vehicles, rather they are escorted.  I have to tell you, I am constantly reminded of how little I know about the logistical details of our elections!  It was an interesting meeting and I am thrilled because I am actually understand a lot of what is being said.

An interesting note, the PNC reclaimed "el castillo" when the National Guard was disbanded after the Civil War.  This building served as the headquarters of the National Guard and was the site of many brutal interrogations that included torture and often resulted in death.  It is said that this building is very haunted at night and that it is possible to hear screams of people suffering and mothers weeping looking for their sons.  There is almost nothing that I have experienced in this country that is not somehow linked to the war.

Later this week, we also met with a staff member of the government agency that protects humans rights.  This too was created as part of the peace accords.   This agency will have volunteer observers, who like our team of observers, will watch and note but will not have the power to intervene.  They will also have staff teams who will be able to intervene if human rights violations occur on voting day.  The most common type of violation is refusing to allow someone to vote.  This happens most frequently in smaller places where everyone knows the party affiliation of everyone else.

We also took a field trip and visited the three municipios where I will be co-ordinating teams - San Isidro, Guacotecti and Sensuntepeque.  We visited the police stations and with members of the local election boards and with the provincial election board.  No matter where we went this week, everyone was glad to hear that there would be observers and offered help in whatever way we needed.  In fact, generally everyone we met with asked if could also cover additional areas.  Sadly because of the number of volunteers this likely won't be possible.

In fact that has been one of the  most moving parts of this week for me -  how welcoming everyone is of observers.   Interestingly, my sister's Christmas package arrived this week after 2 months in the mail.  The woman at the post office is never happy to see me.  She cannot figure out why a "tourist" would be receiving packages.  While she begrudging accepts my Canadian Passport as ID she is not happy about it.  Last time she made me go down the street and have my whole passport photocopied so that she could attach it to her official "post office book".  This time, I happened to be wearing my "official Observer ID badge".  It is made on a computer at CIS.  We will get one from the Government but that will be much closer to the actual  election.  This time, she asked to see my badge, said "oh" and then filled out the paperwork and gave me my package with no questions.  Apparently being an "observer" has its privileges!

A Busy Week

It has been a busy week.  Like a lot of weeks here, I have learned a lot about a lot of different things.

On Friday last week, I returned to ADES for the first time in a month.  People were glad to see me and I was happy to reconnect with them.  People are interested in what I am doing and learning.  I got caught up on the work, but I also got caught up on the "people news".  One woman is pregnant and another is really in love for the first time.  One person asked for my help with homework from his English course.  Some other people asked me to have lunch with them.  I met with Jimmy and Edwin, my English students and they had a lot of questions for me about the differences between words, pronunciation and expressions.  It really did feel like returning to my community.  What a great feeling after all of months of struggling with being here.

As you may recall, I am attending an English language, inter-denominational church here in San Salvador.  The theology of the Church is much more traditional than I prefer.   While there are parts of the service that feel familiar, there is also much that feels very uncomfortable.  However, it is the only English language church and so on that basis it feels more comfortable than the Spanish alternatives.  I have to confess this week I realized that attending this Church was teaching me a lot about accompanying.  A big part of what I think it means to accompany is to listen.  This week I was embarrassed to realize how easily I would have in Canada discounted the theology of this Church.  In among the parts that are out of my comfort zone have been some moments of great clarity and learning for me.  Some of what I have gotten out of the services have been pivotal points in redesigning my life here in El Salvador.  Accompanying is a bit about listening and learning even when at first glance it appears that this place will have nothing to offer.   I have thought about how at home I quickly make judgments and if something doesn't "fit" well very quickly, I move on.  In Canada, I would never have attended this Church more than once.  While many of the members of Union Church of San Salvador and I will disagree on many things, I have learned we have a lot more in common than I would have initially thought.

Sadly, there have been challenges on the election front.  One of the issues involves the people of Santa Marta and the young staff at Radio Victoria.  To summarize a complex issue, basically a large flag from a right wing party was put on private property in Santa Marta, (a very left-wing community), without the permission of the land owner.  This is not permitted under Salvadorian law.  The people were angry and annoyed as there is a very long history of animosity between the village of Santa Marta and the right wing Mayor of Victoria (the city that is the catchment for Santa Marta).  Some people decided to return the flag to the office of the Mayor.  This event was covered live by Radio Victoria a community radio station staffed mostly by youth and young adults.  As a result of their coverage of this event, 6 staff of Radio Victoria received death threats.
Next week there will be a meeting between the people of Santa Marta and the JED - Provincial Electoral Committee.  They have asked for International Observers for this meeting.  I will be going in that role as will other members of the team.   I am very pleased to be able to support my community by observing and reporting what is going on.

This is a volatile time in many places in El Salvador.  We in the International Community are not at risk.  In fact we are not permitted to be involved in political events.  We can be deported immediately.  We have all be advised to stay away from the large political events.  However, it is difficult time in this troubled country.  This week also marked the 20th anniversary of the signing of the Peace Accords that ended the brutal 12 year civil war.  In an unprecedented move President Funes visited El Mazote, the site of the worst massacre of the war and acknowledged publicly what happened there.  He acknowledged that it was not a legitimate act of war but rather was a violation of International Law.   This is clearly still a country divided and the election campaign only serves to highlight the divisions.

Seeing Canada Through Fresh Eyes

Okay, so it is true, I have been enjoying the feeling of being competent this week.  I am one of the people that the "newbies", the new volunteers seek out for information about a variety of issues related to living and working in El Salvador.  I have taken to leading groups to different  places for lunch.  For those of you who remember how directionally challenged I am will know what a feat this is in a place where there are rarely street signs and everything is sorted out by landmarks.

I have also been reminded of how much I have changed this year.  I look at the fresh faces of the new volunteers at CIS who want to "do things" and to "be competent".  They haven't yet figured out that we are going to look foolish a thousand times here -- in what we say, don't say, do and don't do.  They also haven't figured out that people here don't have the same expectation of perfection as we do at home.  They truly do appreciate effort and kindness.  They are also struggling with being in a new place, with new people and trying to do a new job that they only "kind of" understand.  I find myself saying some of the very annoying but true things that people said to me.  "Don't worry, you haven't been here that long" - "It will all work out" - "Your Spanish will get better."  I see my culture in these folks and I am reminded of home.  I wonder when I come home if I will turn back into one these people or if I will be somewhere between the laid back, relaxed Lynn I am here and the person with an enormous "to do" list I typically am  in Canada.

In order to be Election Observer Co-ordinator I am learning a lot about the government and electoral system.  Like everything here it is complicated.  People have a much higher loyalty to their political party than the system of laws.  All of the people working on the elections are from a party.  Since in general people from the left wing party and the right wing parties don't agree on anything, it takes a long time to get things done and things get very complicated.  For example, 3 days before the election,  the electoral committees in each city/region will receive "boxes" with all of the stuff that each table (polling station) needs.  For 3 days people from each party and Police Officers stay awake and "care" for the boxes, no one trusting the other not to open the boxes and steal ballots.  People do not trust each other or the Police to act with integrity.  Everything needs to be checked and double checked by people from all the parties.  While there are 4 main parties, there are in fact 9 parties participating in these elections.  For every committee each party has a representative and a "vigilante", someone who watches to make sure that everything is done properly.

I have no idea who looks after the election boxes in Canada, but I can bet that there is not a group of people staying awake for 3 days.  If it is the role of the Police, we'd basically trust them to look after the boxes.  Not here.  The more I understand about the history of El Salvador, the more I understand this behaviour.

Our program coordinator Vicenta (a very politically involved Salvadorian), finds it hard to believe that none of us really know how voter fraud is prevented in our countries (Canada, US and England).  We just basically say, that we don't really think it happens very much.  There is not a huge group of people who want to vote twice.  The political parties in Canada aren't out rounding up Americans to cross the boarder with fake ID's to   have them vote for them on election day.  Every day I become and more and more thankful for our politicians and our political system.  While not perfect, I appreciate its benefits a lot more.

Finally, an update about the girls.  Nigeli the older girl has experienced a significant improvement in her eye function as a result of the surgery she has this summer.  It was a long road and she had eye and ear infections as complications from the surgery, but all is well.  Unfortunately, her younger sister Katherine continues to battle lung issues.  Despite a wide range of medications, made possible by the generosity of Canadians, there has not been a significant improvement.  As a result, she has not been able to have eye surgery.   Everyone continues to be hopeful.

I have also learned this week, that 5 friends from Canada will join the Election Observer Team here in El Salvador in March.  I am very excited about this development and look forward to welcoming people here to do this important work.  Thank you, all of you who read my blog and who support my journey in so many ways.

Happy New Year!!!!

Hello everyone - Happy New Year from El Salvador.  I have started streaming CHYM-FM my local radio station in K-W.  I have to admit to a "guilty pleasure" when I hear the weather in the morning as I putting on my jeans/t-shirt/hoodie (it's been a bit chilly here in the early mornings!) to head out for my day.  Today (Saturday morning) it is sunny and +3 in K-W and people are celebrating.  Here it is sunny and by noon will likely be about +30.  The climate, particularly this time of year is definitely one of my favourite things here.   

With the new year, my life and schedule has changed a bit.  I am spending a lot more time in San Salvador.  I think this will likely be the case for January.  The elections are only about 2 months away.  They occur on Sunday, March 11th and there is much to learn and much to do.  A new group of election volunteers arrived this week, 3 lovely young women from the US.  Luke who was volunteering at CIS previously has now moved into the elections program.  He is a Latin American studies major from England.  They are a lovely group and I am enjoying getting to know them.

This week I was assigned an honest to goodness job!  In addition to my other general election training and organizing I am acting as the "registrar assistant" for the election observers coming in for the week of the elections.  There will be colour coding, file folders and spead sheets in my future!!! I am so excited to have a "job" that I can run with and that feels like something I can actually do, that is actually helpful.  It is interesting how a year ago I was looking forward to the break from "real work" and being able to spend more time being and learning and thinking.  A year later, I am thrilled and delighted to have a task of my own to do.  

This brings me to what I have been thinking a lot about this week...what has happened over the past year???  It seems incredible to me that 2011 -- my year of adventure is over.  This is 2012 -- my relaunch year.  So if you will indulge me, I'll share with you a few of my thoughts about highlights and lowlights of 2011.

Highlights:

*I've lived for almost a year in El Salvador.   Although there are still a few glitches from time to time, I can manage daily life here.  I understand the difference between a "ticket" (a receipt)  and a "factura" (itemized bill)  when I pay for things at the grocery store.  I understand that "effectivo" means I am paying in cash rather than using my credit card.  I understand that you pay the bus driver when you get on a bus in San Salvador, but you pay the "cobrador" (other person, not the driver) when you get on an inter-city bus.  In San Salvador the full-sized buses cost .20 while the smaller micro buses cost .25.  Also, very important, there are two types of pupusas - rice and corn.  While generally foreigners prefer the corn pupusas, most salvadorians prefer rice pupusas.  

This week one day there was a protest that blocked several of the major roads in San Salvador.  In order to get to CIS I needed to get off one bus, walk for a bit and then get on another bus.  I sorted all of this out and while I got to CIS much later than usual, I got there with very few problems.  It felt a bit like a victory - being able to sort this out on my own.  It was also one of the two times that I have ever forgotten my cell phone, so I couldn't call for information...I needed to work it out by myself.

*My Spanish is much improved!  I have a ton more to learn, my pronunciation is still weak and so is my grammar.  However, my vocabulary is much broader and in general, I can make myself understood and I can understand the basic message from most Salvadorians (but not always!).  This has been such a battle for me.  I have needed to change my expectations a lot.  I have had to learn about how to laugh at myself...I say a lot of things in Spanish that don't always come out the way I wanted them to.  I've had to learn how to risk looking foolish because otherwise I'd never say anything in Spanish. 

*Without a doubt the highlight has been having the opportunity to get to know a group of wonderful, gracious, kind and fun Salvadorians.  I understand a lot more about the realities of living in this beautiful and troubled country.  I appreciate their patience and care in trying to get through life safely here with a  limited understanding of their language and culture.  

Lowlights

*Gaining a better understanding of the depth and extent of the challenges here.   There are such serious and profound obstacles to just about everything.  Systems that I never gave much thought to in Canada are so broken here.  It is hard sometimes to not feel overwhelmed and paralyzed by it all.  My salvadorian friends find hope and so I need to continue to have hope too...something I remember during dark times.  When I see and know things that cause me to feel very judgmental, I need to remember that there is a reason why people are acting this way.  Generally placing the action or decision in this cultural context makes it seem a lot more logical and understandable but often it is still very troubling...

*Appreciating the amount of privilege I have simply by being Canadian.  I have a few friends right now who are sick.   I am deeply saddened by the level of health care they are able to access here.  Although our system has issues, I don't think I will ever complain about it again - knowing what I now know.

*Feeling very different most of the time.  In some ways this can be considered a highlight because I have learned so much about what it is like to be different, to not be able to communicate as well as I'd like and to just sometimes want stuff to be the same as home.  At times I have been more lonely, bored and sad than I have ever been in my life.   

Before I left Canada, I used the getting ready to have a baby metaphor for this time in my life.  This week I have the pleasure of talking to a friend who recently had welcomed a baby girl into their lives.  It struck me again how apt the metaphor is.    Although this time away has definitely been more challenging than I ever could have imagined, it has also been more rewarding and fulfilling than I ever dreamed was possible...a lot like what having a baby seems to be like.  Thanks for being with me on this journey!

My Christmas in El Salvador

Feliz Navidad mis amigos/amigas!  This week I celebrated my first Christmas in El Salvador.  It was a much more low key affair than in Canada, but it certainly had some very special highlights.  On the Friday Dec 16th,  I suggested that my two English students (Edwin and Jimmy)  and I follow a Canadian tradition and have a special lunch before Christmas.  They came to the ADES and collected me and we went in the bus to Sensuntepeque (a city about 5 minutes away).  There we went to Pollo Campero (the Salvadorian equivalent of Kentucky Fried Chicken - only better).  Then they took me Parque Cabanas, a very pretty park that I had never been to before.  I gave Edwin and Jimmy a "Niagara Falls" t-shirt each, that my family had brought with them when they visited.  Both were slightly embarrassed, Jimmy more so.  He then explained to me that he had never received a Christmas present as an adult.  Wow...   Jimmy and Edwin gave me a beautiful Christmas card with a lovely note from both of them.

The next day I left for Belize (see last week's blog) and I returned to El Salvador on the 23rd.  When I got back to the house, there were notices from the post office that I had two packages waiting for me.  Under the Salvadorian postal system, packages can go anywhere in the city of San Salvador.  They most often end up a post office fairly near to my house, but not always.  In this case they were in a part of San Salvador that I had never been in.  I spent a long time in a cab but we eventually found the place and I was able to retrieve the parcels.  Turns out one was for Christmas and one was an early birthday present!  The package that made it for Christmas contained some of my favorite Christmas CD's that I asked a friend to send to me in El Salvador.  Needless to say Christmas music started in earnest.  Jonathan has decided that he really doesn't like English Christmas music, but Jenny has fallen in love with Josh Groban!

On the 24th, I went to deliver a little present to my friends Lissette and Ignacio.  Lissette cried because she too had never received a Christmas present as an adult.  She took off one of her bracelets and gave it to me, saying that she wanted me to have something to remember her by when I returned to Canada.  After this emotional gift delivery, I came back to Jenny's house to wait for people to start arriving and I waited and I waited.  I thought that people would come in the early afternoon, but it was about 7 pm when people started coming...members of Jenny's extended family.  We enjoyed drinks and conversation and the remnants of  the crackers and cheese that I had brought back from Belize.

Jenny cooked a turkey...it started out in a fairly traditional way, minus stuffing.  After it was mostly cooked she put into a tomato sauce and boiled it for a while.  When it was done, they took it out of the sauce, cut it up and then poured the sauce and green olives over it.  It is possible to get green olives in El Salvador, but they are fairly rare...except at Christmas when they are everywhere!

Jenny prepares the turkey with her special rub.

Jonathan cuts up the turkey!

Jenny adds the sauce to the turkey!

Later that evening we exchanged gifts.  Jonathan got me an exquisite El Salvadorian nativity scene.  I had mentioned at one point that I had a collection but hadn't  found one from this country that I like.  Interestingly, the one that Jonathan got for me is one I would have bought had I seen it.  Jenny gave me a very special t-shirt with butterflies on it.  She said that butterflies symbolize transformation, like me this year!  Yah, I started crying at that one!

A long standing Salvadorian tradition is that on Christmas Eve children light firecrackers.  There are a few that  have bright coloured lights, but they are expensive, so mostly the firecrackers are just loud.  This goes on all evening and creates a crescendo at midnight.  The fireworks continue long into the night.  I think that I made to bed around 2pm!  Most of the "extraneros" (foreigners) agree that the fireworks are not our favourite part of Salvadorian culture, but the kids love it.  Talking to Salvadorian adults, they often have very special memories of lighting firecrackers on Christmas Eve.  It was great to be able to experience it.

On the 25th, I set off to Church while Jonathan and Jenny relaxed.  Jenny had been sick throughout the holiday, took a day to just sleep and watch movies.  On the 25th, I called to the extended family Christmas at my Aunt  Betty's in Niagara Falls.  I missed everyone this year, but I am deeply fortunate to be able to be in this here, at this time to learn much about Salvadorian culture and what it is like to celebrate a much simpler holiday.  As is the case with so many times here, I  feel incredibly blessed to be a part of this place with these people.  I miss you and look forward to seeing you in 2012, but it has been a very memorable Christmas.

Merry Christmas my friends and family!

Advent 4 - Love

I don't know what it is about Christmas and Chez Whiz...I don't have any need for the plastic cheese spread at other times of the year.  If  you look way back in my blogs you'll notice I blogged about Chez Whiz last Christmas and sure enough last week I went searching for the this product in the Salvadorian supermarkets.  Both Jonathan and I have enjoyed it.

One of the last things that I did before I started my Christmas vacation (everyone is off for 2 weeks) was to accompany Oscar (the driver) and Edith (my colleague) to a small out of the way community.  It was another community that was really off the beaten track.  We took some toys (balls, colouring books, crayons), a pinata and some cookies.  This very poor community had asked ADES for help in creating a Christmas party.  There is not sufficient money for basics, so there is not money for anything special at Christmas.  What we delivered will be the special "Christmas" things for this community. So we set off to deliver a bit of Christmas joy. We were met, literally at the end of the road, by a couple adults and a few kids who picked up the stuff and hiked it into their community.     This was so different than the Christmas deliveries I have done in Canada.  There was, by comparison, just so little.

Today I am writing to you from Belize.  It is a small country in Central America that is on the Atlantic Ocean side.  I am a little vague on the details, although I know that the Spanish were here, at one point they got kicked out by the British and the natives and British kept the Spanish from coming back.  As a result, Belize was a colony for many years and now is a Constitutional Monarchy like Canada.

I knew Belize was for me, when at the tiny airport there were lovely Christmas decorations and small reggae group playing Christmas music!  Christmas is "bigger" here in Belize than El Salvador although significantly "smaller" than in Canada.  All this week, I have enjoyed hearing Christmas tunes as I wonder the streets and shops of Belize City.

Belizians speak English, sort of.   Walking down the street I understand less of the conversations going on around me than I do in El Salvador!  The British brought in slaves from the Islands and the mixture of Caribbean cultures, with the Spanish, British and various indigenous groups has resulted in a "Creole" language that sounds little like the English I know!  Most Belizians speak "proper" English, creole and many speak Spanish and tribal languages too.

Culturally Belize is more similar to Canada than El Salvador.  I notice small things...like there are street signs (which there aren't in most of San Salvador) and the money is in different colours with pictures of the Queen!  While there is crime and violence in Belize, it is not as significant as in El Salvador.  I have been able to walk a lot during the days, which has been great for me.  I feel like I have really had a vacation and a "break" from my regular life in El Salvador.

One of the highlights of my trip to Belize was the opportunity to worship at a Methodist Church.  It is a large Church with an amazing organ.  I was able to attend a festival of lessons and carols, where we sang a lot of familiar tunes...including an incredible candlelit version of Joy to the World!  At one point I had another experience of awe and wonder where I looked around and thought who ever could have imagined that this white chick from Waterloo, ON would be at Christmas service in Wesley Methodist Church in Belize City, Belize.  Wow, the experiences I've had on my adventure!

This year, I have chosen to be away from the people I love during the holiday.  I wanted to have this experience once in my life...of being away, of being with others and of learning of Christmas celebrations in a different place.  The Christmas story reminds us that although life does not always turn out the way we had hoped, (Mary likely never envisioned her life as being unwed and pregnant), amazing things can result from the unexpected.  While I am not with you in person, know that my prayer (or hope if you prefer) for each of you is that you experience renewal during this Holy Season.  Feliz Navidad - Merry Christmas my friends and family.  Thank you for your support, caring and love this year.

Wesley Methodist Church, Belize City

A Tapir - the National Animal of Belize

Spider Monkey

Bel-Can bridge in Belize City...A gift from the people of Canada!

View looking out to the Atlantic Ocean from Belize City

Advent 3 - Joy

This weekend I CIS arranged a trip for students/volunteers.  5 of us, plus Ulyses (a Spanish instructor at CIS and our guide for the weekend) and Jose (our driver, who I called Luis all weekend until he finally told me his name with Jose!  Oops!) went to the eastern part of El  Salvador to visit a number of sites. The trip was a lot of fun and I enjoyed hanging out and being able to speak to people easily in English.  Generally Ulyses refrained from correcting our Spanish except when we asked.  However at one point he very calmly (and without laughing-- at least on the outside) let me know that the word I needed was "punto" (point) not "puto" (male prostitute).  Recently, although I know the difference between these two words, apparently my pronunciation was not as crisp as it needed to be and my word "pena" (sorrow, trouble, problem) sounded more like "pene" (penis).  I am being very careful to clearly pronounce the word "year" which if not pronounced correctly sounds like I am wishing people a "Happy New Anus"! I was relating these stories to friends at CIS and a woman who speaks very good English but for whom Spanish is her first language told me that she never uses the word "beach" in English because she cannot hear the difference in pronunciation between it and "bitch".

Much of the content of the trip was difficult.  We visited El Mazote which is a small village in the mountains.  In December, 2011 a unit of the Salvadorian army perpetrated what is known as the "worst massacre" during the war.   Around a 1000 people including nearly 150 children were tortured and murdered.  The details are beyond horrifying.  This weekend there was an event commemorating the 30th anniversary.  We also visited a museum which commemorates the lives and deaths of many of the guerrillas during the war as well as a re-creation of a guerrilla camp in the mountains.    Life was very difficult for these folks and many of the people were very young.

At one point I lamented that today's blog topic was joy.  Ironically, this is a topic about which I usually have a lot to say.  I had nothing.  At one point, I said a quick prayer that God if you want to write about "Joy" you are going to need to help me here.  My heart is very heavy with all the tragedy and death I am learning about.

Later in the day on Sunday we climbed a mountain.  We passed enormous craters where bombs were dropped  during the war.  We also passes a helicopter landing site that the army used during the war.  The misery that was unleashed on the peasant population from these places was palpable.


We then reached the top of the mountain.  The view of neighbouring Honduras was spectacular.  It was a sunny, warm day and the mountain top was pristine.  There were a few trees so there was the option of shade or sun.  At one point during our time here I realized that I had found my joy.  The simple joy of simply being alive.  The man who was our guide at the museum had lived in a rebel camp for many years.  He talked about how they prayed twice a day...once in the morning to thank God for seeing them through the night and again the evening to thank God for whatever blessings they had received during the day.  It is hard to imagine they received much, including food, during the day, but they remained thankful.  I was deeply reminded of the blessing of life and the joy that comes with simply being alive.  The people that I know that survived the horrors of this war have the gift of life.

As I quietly walked down the mountain, back to "real" life and the challenges of life in El Salvador, my spirit somehow felt lighter for having found a way to rejoice in the midst of such darkness.

And so my friends, I would invite you to take a moment, be still, breathe deeply and feel deep within you the joy of being alive.

Me on the mountain.

Ulyses and the 5 "chicas".

Advent 2 - Peace

So of all of The Advent themes, I have always had the least connection to "peace".  Hope, joy and love just seem to have a lot more relevance in my life.  I live in a relatively peaceful country and wars happen in other places.  Then I came to El Salvador.  This weekend I am going on a trip to the 30th anniversary of the worst massacre that occurred in during the war, in a place called El Mazote.  Everywhere,  there are reminders of the brutal civil war that happened here for 12 years.  Although the war ended in 1992,  there are many facets of El Salvadorian life that are still impacted by what happened.  In the tiny village of Cinquera, unexploded bombs are cemented in front of  the church and in the park there is part of a downed aircraft and old guns are attached to the fence.

Park in Cinquera

The Church in Cinquera with the bombs out front.   Note the painting of  Oscar Romero on the  left.

The legacies of the war impact much of El Salvadorian life.  Gangs and narco-trafficing are big business here that grew exponentially after the war.  Why this is, is another long story, which I'll save for another day.  Parts of this country are very, very violent.  Life is organized to protect people from this violence.  As a result, I am rarely out on the street after dark (occasionally on a bus or in a vehicle, but never just wondering around).  There are armed security guards everywhere and there are a lot of police, who travel in groups of 3 or 4.  While I have never been threatened or robbed here, everyday everyone structures their day to minimize this risk.  The risk is almost always present.  Every once and a while you get a bit of a break from this reality and it feeling very safe feels very odd.  Yesterday was one of those of days.

 I had the opportunity to accompany a group of youth and their leads to a water park for the day.  One of my colleages Edith, works at ADES and is studying social work.  She has had her placement working at a youth centre in Zacamil.  This is a very poor, very rough section of San Salvador.  The family situations of these youth are general really bad.  Among other things, there is not enough food for any of these kids.  I was shocked when one "little guy" told me he as 12.  I thought he was about 6 or 7 based on his size.  The future for these kids is not at all certain.  In addition to all their family issues, the area where they live in is controlled by gangs.  There will be a lot of pressure to join and the risk of death if they don't.  Yesterday was not about their reality, it was about having a day away.

So the "chicos" and their adult leaders and I piled into a mini-van and headed for the water park.  It was nothing like what a Canadian water park would be like, but there was 3 different pools complete with water slides and a splash pad area.  None of the water was very deep, so it was very safe.   There was also a park like area that surrounded the pools.  The boys could run and play and they did.  There were bbq areas and so the adults cooked up chicken. and the other leaders had brought rice, salad, tortillas, pop and cookies.  The kids had a huge feed.  I didn't initially understand what was happening when they started coming to ask for plastic bags, I thought they were bagging the garbage.  Then I realized what they were doing was taking food from their plates home.  The leftovers got bagged and the kids took them too.

Once again I was reminded of the lesson that I learn again and again here.  When the big picture is just too overwhelming and too sad, look around.  I was amazed at how kind the "big" kids were to the "little" kids.  This group has become its own "alternative" family.  Maybe this connection the boys will be able insulate each other a little bit from the all of the challenges in their young lives.  At the very least, they had a day away, where they could be kids and where the adults around them were kind and nurturing.  Maybe, this will help these kids to continue to be the peaceful kids they are.  By showing them a different path perhaps they will be able to chose peace rather than the life of violence that surrounds them.

Once again, I feel deeply honoured to have been able to share this "happy" day with the "chicos from Zacamil".

The "chicos" and their leaders

At the pool

Having lunch

Advent 1 - Hope

Okay, so my last week's blog wasn't one of my best.  There were a number of reasons - I was tired, I was rushed and I had been feeling a bit hopeless.  The problems in El Salvador are so entrenched and complicated and serious.  There are so many injustices that people live with every day.  It just felt overwhelming and I wasn't ready to share it yet.  I needed some time to process some specific situations and the impact that general life here was having on my soul.  So I cranked the required blog but it didn't gel as well as some others.

Last week there was a conference here of people working with grass roots communities in Central and South America, Mexico and Cuba.  Quite frankly, I was very irritable and found much of it tedious.  I had a huge problem with a number of the accents and found the sessions very hard to follow.  On Friday my boss Gilma  asked if I would support another staff person at an event in the afternoon.  I suspect she sensed my restlessness.   I readily agreed.  When it was time to go, there were some problems with my transportation.  The person I was supposed to go with left without me.  Eventually there was some conversations and they figured out how to get me to the event.  I thought I was going to an event to commemorate the International Day to End Violence Against women in Santa Marta, but I ended up at the closing of the Literacy Circles in Sensuntepeque.  I arrived, grumbling to myself, that this was just another example of how little I understand in this culture and I was in a generally foul mood.

I was asked to take pictures.  There were a lot of children present and so I started taking pictures of groups of kids.  I've never done this before and in generally avoid the kids because they don't get my Spanish at all.  However, this was a good day and they laughed at my Spanish and I generally got better, happier pictures.  I would take a picture of a group of kids and show them the picture and then generally there was another looking like they wanted their picture taken.  There was some connection and I realized after a while that I was feeling better.

Then the event started.  It was MC'd by a young man named Denis.  He is quite remarkable to me.  He is 18 and a dedicated, charismatic and passionate community leader and eloquent speaker.  He is a facilitator of a literacy circle in his home community.  He always has a smile and a "hello" for me.  His English does not expand much beyond that, but he really tries to communicate with me, speaking Spanish slowly and clearly.  It is easier now, but he tried really hard when it was really tough to have a conversation with me.  For that reason he will always be very special to me.

Then Juan, the leader of the team that organizes the literacy program, spoke.  He is a teacher and former principal.  He spoke about the importance of being about to read and the worlds that having this skill opens up.  I started to cry.  After feeling hopeless for a while, I had found a little bit of hope.   I thought, no matter what life throws at these people, they now have basic literacy and numeracy skills.  No one can take that away from them.

In the end 140 certificates were presented to people in literacy programs in a number of very small, rural, and poor areas around the ADES office.  There were a lot of older people (50+) who got certificates.   Many of these folks just smiled from ear to ear when their name was called.  They all had children and grandchildren there with them.  I was near the front because I was taking pictures and I was wearing an ADES t-shirt.  I got a number of hugs and thanks you from the participants too.  I hugged back and said "felicitaciones" (congratulations).  There was also some younger people and people in between.  One of the most moving presentations was to a group of people with disabilities.  There are very few services (medical or social) for people with disabilities.  What an accomplishment for the people in this group.  Everyone in the Literacy Program has a story and Carmen the co-ordinator would whisper different things to me as people got their certificates.  So much adversity.  It just makes the successes that much sweeter.

So on  a Friday afternoon, in a well worn, jammed packed meeting room in El Salvador, I found hope.   People and situations can change.  Things can move in a positive direction.  The facilitators come from the same communities as the learners.  Salvadorians are helping Salvadorians, in this small but effective program in rural Northern El Salvadorian.  While ADES receives some money from organizations in Spain to help coordinate the program, this is not a foreign aid program.

Once again I have been reminded that when it all seems hopeless, I need to look around me.  I need to see the people in and around my life.  They truly are amazing and little by little they are making this world a little bit better, a little more just and little fairer for themselves, their children and their communities.  For this opportunity to accompany people in El Salvador, I am deeply blessed.

May you each find hope this week.

Children waiting for the program to begin

Literacy Group Facilitators - Denis is in front with the white shirt

One of the Literacy Circles 

Updates and Musings

This coming Sunday is the first Sunday of Advent.  Next week I will begin a 4 week blog series on Hope, Peace, Joy and Love.  This week I just have a bunch of unrelated stuff I wanted to tell you about.

BUSES:
Last week, they (I need to use this term because the public transportation system in El Salvador is operated by a number of companies and I have no idea how it is all organized, so I will use the generic "they") decided to run a direct bus from San Salvador to Sensuntepeque - one in the morning and one in after work.  For the same cost, I can take a bus that takes an hour or less (rather than the usual 1.5 -1.75 hours) because it only makes 5 stops instead of 25 or 30.  Because there is a "regular" bus at the same time, and the number of customers are split, so there are always seats.  Since it is so quick, generally there are 8-10 ADES staffers on it.  It is quicker, more comfortable, there are lots of people I know  and there is usually great music.  I love the DIRECTO as it is called!

Also for reasons I don't understand, there has been a lot fewer people on my San Salvador bus coming home at night.  This means that I have gotten seat on Tuesdays and Wednesdays for the past two weeks.  It still takes about 2 hours.  It does eventually get very, very full.  However, it is nice to be able to sit and to be able to put my back pack on the floor.  Don't know if this will continue, but it is lovely.

CHRISTMAS
There are so many things that are so interesting to me about Christmas in El Salvador.  Here Poinsettias are called Pascuas (Easter).  I find this amusing because it is a Christmas plant.  Last week at the the Mall, there was Santa.  He has a Santa station much like you would see in any Mall in Canada.  I find it amusing that here in this warm country, the Santa House is all decked out with fake snow.  The first time I saw the skinny, Latino Santa speaking Spanish to the kids, I found it kind of odd.  Somehow I hadn't made the leap to a multilingual Santa.  An English speaking Santa would not be useful here!

CONFERENCE
ADES is hosting a Conference of people who work in agencies working with poor people.   Delegates are arriving today from Mexico, Central and South America.  The Conference will last for 3 days with everyone going home on Sunday.

In general planning is done with a lot less lead time here.  It would be relatively easy to get 4 people together for a meeting early next week here, unlike in Canada where everyone's schedules are likely booked.  I haven't yet seen anyone with a 2012 daytimer, whereas in my office in Canada people have likely been booking 2012 meetings since October.  I became aware of this conference about a month ago.  In my mind, not a lot of time for an International Conference.  The program looks great and I am looking forward to attending a lot of the sessions.

The Conference is being held a former grand hacienda in Guacotecti.  It went from being a private house, to a seminary and now it is being converted into a small rural campus of the Lutheran University of El Salvador.  A group of staff visited the site on Monday.  On Tuesday staff were going to clean and move in furniture.  It is an empty building.  Mattresses, chairs, tables and dining tables are being moved from ADES to the Conference Centre.  Staff also came to assess the stability of the water supply and the adequacy of the plumbing.  In the end, repair work was not required, but we had a plumber on standby.  Also on Tuesday plans were made to spray for mosquitoes as there is a bunch of overgrown vegetation nearby.  I have organized meetings and conferences, but the most set up I have ever done is moving around tables and chairs!
I was at CIS for the "set-up" on Tuesday, but I'll be around and will help with the "clean-up" all day Monday, as will all of the staff who are not otherwise occupied.  Managers, the Executive Director and front line staff will all roll up there sleeves.  A very different experience!

COMMUNICATION
So this has been an interesting couple of weeks.  On November 6th, I participated in a service at Westminster United Church via SKYPE.  It was great to be able to share with people more about what I am doing and thinking about here and to be able to be part of the service at Westminster.  It has been awesome to share this service with my friends Ignatio and Lissette here.  When I showed Lissette the article I had written about the service and I showed her the parts that I had written about her, she cried.  She said that she had never been important enough to be written about before.  The people at ADES want to see the article in Spanish.  My good friend and loyal Spanish/English expert Andrew is working on a translation for me.  I have attached a copy of the newsletter if you want to check it out.    They are pleased that people in Canada want to know about them.  Also, in this month's United Church Observer is an article that I wrote about the mining issue.  I didn't make the on-line version and I forgot to get it scanned.  I will and I will attach that link next week.  I will also work on figuring out how attach the newsletter.  Techie stuff is still not my strength!


THE GIRLS
Finally, some good news about the "girls".  Katherine, the youngest, is finally on a medication that seems to be clearing up her lung problems.  In fact the improvement is so significant that there is talk that she will have her eye surgery soon.  This is awesome.  She has been so sick for so long that it is great news that finally there has been a correct diagnosis and medication to correct the problems.  Her sister Negeli had a number of complications after her eye surgery including ear and eye infections, but these are clearing up too.  Thank you for all of your prayers and concern for these two children.

Caught by Surprise

Today, I thought I would share with you a number of things that have surprised me recently.

• The first being, this is my 50th blog post!!!  Who ever would have thought that I would be able to write that many and that you would continue reading them.  Many thanks to my friend Cheryl and her husband who patiently helped me to set it up, when I could barely turn on my new computer!  In terms of my techie accomplishments, I have started texting using my cell phone. Yesterday I learned how to make capital letters!
• This past week, I was pleased to be able to host my family here in El Salvador.  I was amazed at how open everyone was to trying new things and foods.  In particular I was amazed by the kids and their willingness to explore a new culture.  My family decided that they really liked liche fruit and queso duro (hard cheese that is a very popular food here.  

Lichi fruit.  Peel off the shell and grape like fruit with a pit awaits the eater!

• What a nervous wreck I was before the outings with my family.  I have not "arranged" things for a while and I found this stressful.   I always very nervous when I know that I am going to have to rely on my level of Spanish.  Everything went really well and we had lovely van drivers.  Javier coped with my Spanish and Jimmy spoke a lot of English and this helped a lot!  Collectively we visited downtown San Salvador (the Cathedral and the crypt of Oscar Romero), Cuscatlan Park - where the kids all bought a plastic bird thing that were huge hits, Centro de Intercambio y Solidaridad (CIS) and their fair trade gift shop (where I happy to report that my family did its share to support artisans in El Salvador!) and had a lunch on the San Salvador volcano.  We did another trip to ADES and a trip to Joya de Ceran (an archeological site where a volcano eruption covered up a village around 500 AD).

My family on the porch of my house in Guactecti.
(L-R) Karen, Rachel, Aunt Betty, Marty, Cindy, Marty, Aunt Susan and Uncle Bruce  

• The warm welcome that the staff at ADES made for my family.  I wasn't surprised by the warmth of the welcome, but rather by the form.  The Executive Director, Antonio Pacheco made a speech welcoming my family and the ADES staff sang a traditional El Salvadorian song.  Staff from ADES including Jenny and Jonathan made a traditional meal that included chicken, carrots, broccoli, a zucchini like vegetable and yucca, casamiento (beans and rice), queso duro and of course tortillas.  My family all agreed that the lunch at ADES was a highlight of the trip.  

Lunch at ADES

• At how little common language kids need in order to play together.  Rachel (4) seemed to make friends wherever she went.  She and little girls who only spoke Spanish would smile, hold hands and run together.

Rachel and Alyssa (the daughter of an ADES colleague)

• By the surprise that ADES staff have at the generosity of my friends and family.  Collectively we have raised $2000 for flood relief.  This is a long way from the $25 000 they estimated that they need for emergency food relief, but it is a good start.  Thanks to everyone who contributed.

A wash out road bridge due to the floods. 

• How sharing a simple lunch with friends after the skyped church service was the perfect ending to a moving and emotional experience.  On November 6th, with the techie help of Steve Lichti in Canada and Lissette and Ignatio here in El Salvador, I was able to participate via Skype in the service at my home church in Waterloo.  I skyped from the Internet Cafe where Lissette works.  After the service, Ignatio's Mom arrived with lunch and I was invited to partake.  It was so great to end my time with my Westminister folks by doing here what I do there, enjoy lunch and conversation with friends.  
• My joy at finding an American volunteer who is as outraged as I am about all of things that happen in El Salvador and the complicity of our countries in allowing and assisting it all to happen.  Generally the response of foreigners seems to fall into 2 categories, one of a vague disconnection to it all or the other, an acceptance of the fact that this is the way it is.  Carl and I are both still naive enough to believe that our countries can do better and so we are angered by the stupid, ridiculous and myopic decisions of our governments.  Our latest issue has to do with the American government's refusal to work with the Minister of Security.  It is rumoured that this contributed to him submitting his resignation this week.  The Minister was part of the rebel group during the war and is named as one of the participants in the killing of 4 American Marines at a sidewalk cafe in San Salvador during the Civil War.  I am not condoning this action in any way.  However, let us consider that the United States spent over a million a day arming and training the Army and National Guard during the brutal 12 year civil war.  The Salvadorians have forgiven a lot, perhaps it is time for the American Government to do so too.  

Rachel, Karen and I